What is a Vertically Integrated Wool Mill?

A Step Towards Environmental Sustainability: Vertical Mills

Vertical mills are one of the most sustainable choices for producing wool blankets on the market; but what does that mean?

Vertical mills are woolen mills that do all parts of the manufacturing process from start to finish—from processing the wool, to spinning it into yarn, and finally, weaving the blankets—creating one sustainable operation. This eliminates materials transportation emissions create in many other manufacturing processes. For example, a horizontally integrated mill has various transportation steps involved in creating one blanket: first, the shipment of raw wool from a farm is shipped to a processing place where it is then shipped again to a woolen mill, and lastly, is shipped to yet another place for packaging.

   
Examples of sheep at vertical mills in Norway and the UK that are tended to and later sheered for wool

Example of the interior of a vertical mill factory

The reduced carbon emissions make blankets produced at vertical mills among the most sustainable wool blankets on the market, which is important for our Native-owned business. “Care for Mother Earth is a foundational Native value,” shares Eighth Generation CEO Colleen Echohawk (Pawnee, Athabascan). “Eighth Generation is committed to caring for our world, and forging new paths toward sustainability.” Working with vertical mills is part of walking that path; to that end we are thrilled to offer our newest series of wool blankets, all crafted by vertical mills. Our North Winds Series and Waymaker Series currently include a total of four wool blankets, all produced at vertical mills. Our North Winds Series is produced at a vertical mill in Norway, weaving 100% wool blankets that are thick and heavy in weight, while our Waymaker Series is produced at a vertical mill in the UK, manufacturing 100% wool blankets that are lighter in weight, but still maintain a gorgeous drape.

North Winds Series

As the North Wind blows cold air from the Arctic, green lights dance across the night sky while people below exchange goods across the Northern Hemisphere as they have for thousands of years. Combining the poetic and the practical, we have created our beautiful Native-designed North Winds Series of 100% wool blankets produced by a heritage vertical mill in Norway. This mill specializes in sustainable practices and weaving heritage techniques; even better, they contribute to the cultural and ecological diversity in Norway by raising and tending their own sheep. Sheep grazing maintains healthy habitats by preventing overgrowth in meadow ecosystems while conditioning the soil to improve water and nutrient intake. Our unique partnership allows us to share Indigenous art and excellence with Nordic partners while working with a small mill that, like Eighth Generation, values sustainability and cultural practices. Our North Winds Series currently includes our Elk’s Offering Wool Blanket by Gail White Eagle (Muckleshoot and Chehalis) and our Spider Woman Wool Blanket by Lynda Teller Pete (Diné/Navajo).

Our Elk’s Offering Wool Blanket designed by Gail White Eagle

Using traditional Coast Salish geometric weaving patterns, Gail White Eagle (Muckleshoot and Chehalis) honors the life of the elk and gift of the hunter in her Elk's Offering Wool Blanket. She pays tribute to the hunter who sacrifices time to feed his people while giving thanks to the elk who sacrifices its life.

Our Spider Woman Wool Blanket designed by Lynda Teller Pete

Spider Woman is the constant helper and protector of humans in Navajo creation stories and taught Diné/Navajo women to weave wool blankets and rugs so their people could survive winter. Internationally-renowned Diné weaver, Lynda Teller Pete pays tribute and continues the legacy of Diné women weavers in her Spider Woman Wool Blanket. Her design is based on a manta, a wool textile that Navajo women commonly wove and wore as a draped blanket or wrap dress in the 1800s.

Waymaker Series

From creating paths and connections across our beautiful homelands, to forging new ways to retain our identity in the face of colonial landscape, Native people have always made our own way. Our Waymaker Series is a collection of Native-designed 100% wool blankets produced at a vertical mill in the United Kingdom that are as sustainable as they are beautiful. Not only has our UK partner achieved a “Zero to Landfill” status in 2023, but they have also implemented a new facility that further reduces their carbon footprint by decreasing the downtime of their machines. Further, they adhere to a rigorous eight-point internal sustainability policy, helping us to continue the Native practice of caring for our Mother Earth. Our Waymaker Collection currently includes our Bear Claws Wool Blanket by John Isaiah Pepion (Piikani/Blackfeet) and our Grand Blessings Wool Blanket by Colleen Echohawk (Pawnee and Athabascan).

 
Our Bear Claws Wool Blanket designed by John Isaiah Pepion

Grizzly bears are one of the most sacred animals for Blackfeet people, representing protection, medicine, and power. Our Bear Claws Wool Blanket by Piikani/Blackfeet artist and Inspired Natives® Project Collaborator John Isaiah Pepion showcases this powerful creature through an adapted design of the war shirts worn by Plains people. He also includes the Morning Star, a symbol in Piikani culture, bringing you luck, positive dreams, and blessings.

Colleen Echohawk wearing her Grand Blessings Wool Blanket

In her Grand Blessings Wool Blanket, Pawnee and Athabascan artist Colleen Echohawk pays tribute to family, connection and belonging while paying homage to her grandparents, great grandparents, and ancestors on both sides of her family. Her design reminds us that our ancestors are not only watching out for us, but that we can always find our way back to our people and to ourselves.

Sustainable Future

Eighth Generation is proud to continue our work in finding more sustainable ways to create our beautiful wool blankets so that we can share authentic Indigenous culture and art while taking care of our planet and being a proud participant in the global economy. Our future plans include expanding the designs offered in our current vertical mill collections, as well as actively pursuing vertical mills closer to home. Thank you for being part of our commitment to Native values, Native artists, and supporting Inspired Natives®, not “Native-inspired.”